In a world obsessed with instant social media fame, Belgian designer Julie Kegels is making a powerful statement about the curated self with her Fall 2026 collection, "Face Value." This collection isn't just about clothes; it's a deep dive into how we construct and present our identities in an age of constant visibility.
Imagine this: the air is filled with the unsettling strains of violins, and models move with a deliberate, almost meditative slowness. This isn't your typical runway show designed for quick snaps. Kegels deliberately slows things down, forcing us to truly see the garments, to appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship that often gets lost in our fast-paced digital lives. It’s a refreshing antidote to the relentless pursuit of viral moments.
The collection's title, "Face Value," is a direct nod to Andy Warhol's concept of "aura" – that intangible quality that makes something unique and, well, real. Kegels also draws inspiration from the dreamlike, long-exposure portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, whose work itself delves into the philosophical ideas of existentialism, particularly the writings of Martin Heidegger. The result is a profound exploration of the space between our outward presentation and our inner truth, the ever-present tension between shadow and authenticity.
But here's where it gets fascinating: this cerebral approach results in a collection that is surprisingly, and wonderfully, wearable. Kegels masterfully transforms everyday garments into something extraordinary. Think of capes that don't just drape but seem to flow from the shoulders all the way down to the ankles, creating an ethereal, ghostly silhouette. Jackets that have shed their traditional structure are reborn as elegant dresses, and simple pajama tops are dramatically inflated into opulent gowns. A classic white button-down shirt takes on a new life as a flowing cape, and a skirt that appears to be falling apart at the waist unexpectedly drapes with theatrical flair.
How does Kegels achieve these striking transformations? She starts by photographing garments in her Antwerp atelier, playing with light and shadow to create distorted patterns. These manipulated forms then become the blueprints for entirely new silhouettes. It’s a process that embraces imperfection and uses it as a springboard for creativity.
And this is the part most people miss: Kegels also employs what she calls "forced tailoring." This technique artfully positions the body to adopt a more assertive posture. Take, for instance, sleeves designed to push the arms forward with an almost military precision, imbuing the wearer with a sense of command. Even shrunken pullovers are given a playful twist, with slices at the back of the shoulders allowing fabric to pop out like vibrant, unexpected wings.
Backstage, Kegels shared a key insight: "The aura is a shield." She explained that while we all present a certain appearance to the world, it might not always reflect our true inner selves. The "Julie Kegels woman," she suggests, is someone who constantly strives for control, yet acknowledges that this control is inherently imperfect. This idea of imperfect control is a central theme, making the collection relatable and deeply human.
Now, let's talk about the details that spark conversation. Exposed seams aren't just a design choice; they highlight the inherent contrast within the collection. Some pieces feature deliberately unfinished edges, adding to the raw, authentic feel. What's truly charming is how Kegels embraced an unexpected turn: what were intended to be sharp, jagged hats ended up resembling the cute headgear of the beloved cartoon bird, Calimero. This delightful irony inspired her to weave in more childlike references, like cozy baby blankets repurposed as chic wrap skirts.
As Andy Warhol wisely observed, our "aura" can vanish the moment we speak. However, in the skilled hands of Julie Kegels, the right outfit possesses the power to sustain that carefully crafted image, at least for a little while longer. What do you think? Is our "aura" something we should actively control, or is it more authentic to let it be? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
